Adjara
(Achara) is a region of Georgia that has rich history and diverse terrain
patterns. Local archeological findings suggest that the region has been
populated since the Stone Age. Starting from the Neolithic Age, the basin
of the Chorokhi River has represented a big center of first bronze and
then iron production. Adjara was part of one of early statehood units
on the territory of Georgia that was called ‘Colkha’ (Colchis), and was
well known to the antic world that had active links with Colchis as confirmed
by the famous myth about Argonauts. Colchis was known as the motherland
of King Aeëtes and his daughter Medea and the country of the legendary
Golden Fleece.
In addition to the legendary Colchis, kingdoms of Egrisi and Kartli (Iberia)
were established on the territory of today’s Georgia in the 6th-4th centuries
BC. The kingdom of Kartli with the capital in Mtskheta gained particular strength
in the 4th-3rd centuries BC. Jews exiled by Nebuchadnezzar from Israel settled
there in the 6th century BC and have been peacefully living in Georgia for 26
centuries ever since.
According to some historical records, Parnavaz I, King of Kartli, invented the
old Georgian alphabet, the ‘Asomtavruli’, in the 3rd century BC. Yet the oldest
example of the Georgian script is found on the facade of the Sioni Christian
Church in Bolnisi, dated to the 6th century AD.
Christianity first appeared in Georgia in the 1st-2nd centuries AD and became
the state religion in 337 during the reign of King Mirian. Christianity is related
to Apostles St. Andrew the First-Called and Matthias the Evangelist, historians
believe that Apostle Matthias who was chosen to the college of Apostles after
the death of Judas is buried in one of the oldest fortresses in Adjara, in Gonio-Apsarosi.
Construction of churches and monasteries shaped the unique national architectural
style of the Georgian Christian sanctuaries – the so-called cruciform churches
with domed roofs. The traditions of reading and writing as well as literacy were
presumably advanced by the conversion to Christianity. The Old and New Testaments,
hagiographies and theological literature were translated into the Georgian language,
promoting creation of original spiritual texts, Georgian hagiography and hymnography.
As part of the Kingdom of Kartli, Adjara is first mentioned in the Georgian records
after the 3rd century. The record was made by Leonti Mroveli, a 9th century author
who described political and administrative structure of the kingdom under King
Parnavaz mentioning that the King ‘sent [him] as eristavi of Odzrkhi (governor
of Odzrkhi) and gave him the area from Tashiskari to Arsiani, from the beginning
of Noste to the sea that does not belong to either Samtskhe or Adjara’.
During the reign of King David IV and Queen Tamar (11th-12th centuries AD), Georgia
advanced both culturally and economically. The epoch is known as early renaissance
and is marked by works of famous philosophers Ioane Petritsi and Arsen Ikaltoeli,
and Shota Rustaveli’s great poem ‘The Knight in the Panther’s Skin’(‘Vepkhvistkaosani’).
Reign of Queen Tamara offered a wide space for free thinking and fair and humane
relationships between the state and the individual; that was also an epoch when
capital punishment was abolished.
The overall progress in the country could be also seen in Adjara. In the Middle
Ages it also had well-developed traditions of literature, architecture, transcription
of books, and different branches of economy. Famous writer, scientist and astronomer
Tbel Abuseridze lived and worked in Adjara in the 13th century. Works of this
writer are of great value for the Georgian spirituality and history of that epoch.
Another important piece of literature is ‘Chronicles of the Tbeti Souls’ that
was written in the 12th-17th centuries in the Tbeti Monastery in Shavsheti, it
contains priceless information about history, geography, demography and onomastics
of different areas: the Machakhela, Chorokhi and Acharistskali valleys and regions
of Southwest Georgia.
The 13th century opened a difficult period of the Georgian history: for a century
the country was under the rule of the Mongols, had to survive in devastating
battles with Tamerlane, and finally disintegrated into smaller kingdoms/counties
in the 15th century. Collapse of the orthodox Byzantine Empire and the fall of
Constantinople to the Turks finally alienated Georgia from Western Europe. From
early 16th century through late 18th century Georgia that was divided into feudal
counties struggled for its independence. Endless wars with Iran/Ottoman Empire
destroyed the country.
In 1783, Erekle II, King of Eastern Georgia, had to sign the Georgievsky Treaty
with the Russian Empire to place Georgia under the Russian protection. In 1801,
the Russian Tsar abolished the Kingdom of Kartli and Kakheti and annexed it to
the Russian Empire. Later on the same was done to Western Georgia. Thereby Russia
made Georgia part of its colonial structure. Yet the Adjarian population passed
Georgian and Orthodox traditions from generation to generation, and retained
their language and culture. In 1878, Adjara again became part of Georgia after
the Russian-Turkish war.
After the October Revolution in 1917 and subsequent disintegration of the Russian
Empire, Georgia gained independence for three years. Yet in February 1921 the
Democratic Republic of Georgia was annexed by the Bolshevik Russia and became
part of the Soviet Union, with Adjara obtaining the status of an autonomous republic
that it has retained ever since. Georgia finally regained independence only after
the collapse of the Soviet Union. In 1995 Georgia adopted a new constitution
and became a presidential republic.
Large part of the Mtirala National Park is located on the territory of three
municipalities: of Kobuleti, Khelvachauri, and Keda – an area with a
lot of prominent monuments of history and culture. Remains of settlements,
churches, fortresses, burial places and sacrificial altars, archeological
artifacts, ancient bridges, steel and clay items, old irrigation channels
found there - all have ancient and fascinating history and are part of
Georgia’s glorious past.
A fortress of Gonio-Apsarosi is located in village Gonio in Khelvachauri district,
12 km from Batumi. The fortress was built close to the sea and had a very important
strategic position protecting the entrances to the Colchic and Acharistskari
valleys. It was the cradle of the Colchic Bronze Age culture and the Georgian
statehood. Archeologists have collected rich and diverse evidence confirming
that the first settlements were founded in Gonio in the 7th-6th centuries BC.
In 1974, road construction works in Gonio exposed ancient artifacts consisting
of wonderful golden items: a golden statuette of a young boy (It belongs to
the Dioscurian tradition and dates back to the 1st century BC), massive faceted
bracelets, a medallion showing an image of a muse, ornamented plates, images
of warriors, animals and birds, diverse patterns of Late and Middle Ages ceramics
and chinaware, gold, silver and bronze necklaces, different items, steel arms.
Coins found in the pits are of particular importance for studying trade and
economic relationships: Macedonian coins are found there together with numerous
Roman coins. Findings on the territory of the Kobuleti-Pichvnari settlement
also include local and foreign coins: the Cyzicenus, Sinopic drams, coin of
Amisos, stater of Alexander the Great, coins from Syracuse, etc. The evidence
suggests that Adjarian coastal settlements had direct contacts with different
centers of the antic world: Miletus, Chios, Lesbos, Athens, Sinope, Heraklion,
etc.
There is a fortress called Petra-Tsikhisdziri in the area adjacent to the National
Park, 5 km from Kobuleti. Petra-Tsikhisdziri is a brilliant price of early
feudal epoch that is believed to have been both a fortress site and a church
site.
Due to its important strategic location both for military purposes and trade,
in the 6th century AD Justinian, the Emperor of Byzantium, ordered that the
fortress should be extended and upgraded. The Tsikhisdziri fortress controlled
a road going across the coastal zone and connecting the region with Byzantium,
Persia, and Armenia, and the Great Silk Road going from Byzantium and on via
the Black Sea.
The fortress of Khikhani played an important role in the history of Georgia
and Adjara. The fortress is situated in the Khikhani gorge, in a hard-to-access
place at 2635 m above sea level. It protected Adjara from the southeast and
was critical for the country. The fortress was built under the supervision
of the Abuseridzes, a famous feudal family who built the fortress following
an order and instructions of the King. The Khikhani Fortress is almost totally
destroyed today, with only some ruins of fortifications and public facilities
still remaining on the site.
The Batumi Fortress situated at the estuary of the Korolistskali was first
mentioned by pseudo Aristotle in the 4th century BC. Under the name of ‘Portus
Altus’, the fortress was also mentioned on Tabula Peutingeriana (the Table
(map) of Peutinger) and was a typical settlement of the 8th-7th centuries BC.
Archeological findings also suggest the presence of an archeological layer
dated to the end of the 7th - beginning of the 6th centuries BC that was represented,
among others, by some Ionian clay ware and Chiosian amphorae believed to be
the oldest in the Transcaucasus.
Among architectural sites that have survived to date in Adjara, particular
attention should be paid to multiple-arch bridges that were similar in importance
to fortresses and cultic sites. Bridge building traditions date back to the
4th-5th centuries AD, after Christianity was proclaimed as the state religion
and new style and approaches were introduced to local economy, lifestyle, culture
and architecture. Construction of stone arch bridges was of particular importance
for entire Georgia, including Adjara, because of the Great Silk Road going
across the country. Today there are bridges mainly remaining in the valleys
of the rivers Acharistskali and Kintrishi in Adjara. The total number of bridges
there is evaluated as about 30. Scientists pay particular attention to the
Dandalo Bridge, also to the Makho, Makhuntseti, Purtio and other bridges.
Cultic architecture had to survive through the most serious damage as compared
to other types of architecture in Southwest Georgia. This is particularly true
about Adjara where many Christian churches/meetinghouses were destroyed by
Ottomans. Among sites that survived, Skhalta cathedral dating back to the 12th
century is the most prominent monument of the middle feudal ages. Similar to
the Khikhani Fortress, it was built by the Abuseridzes and is located in the
valley of the river Skhalta, a place where a short and convenient road between
Adjara and Artaani goes. The cathedral is built on the right bank of the Skhalta
river, on a high mountain plateau. The site used to be fenced; there are ruins
of a big church and of a smaller cathedral still remaining at the site, on
which according to D. Bakradze and P. Uvarova a bell-tower was built later
on. The church had no dome, was built with gray porphyry and had the shape
of a parallelogram. The church had a high triangular pediment; there was a
church porch in
the west and a chapel in the south. Fragments of paintings that still remain
inside are dated to the 14th century AD and represent one of the best examples
of the Georgian monumental painting.
One of the wonderful monuments that have survived to date is St. George’s Church
in Achkvi that is dated to about 13th-14th century AD, where frescos have also
survived.
Another interesting site is a stone wine press house in village Zeniti located
adjacent to the Mtirala National Park that is a monument of the Hellenic epoch
dating back to the 3rd century BC. It is an 8m-long and 3m-wide monolith cone-shaped
structure where levers and the press were placed. The Zeniti wine press had
high capacity, which confirms ancient traditions of viticulture and wine production
in the region.
Developed viticulture of the Chakvistskali valley is also confirmed by remains
of ancient wine cellars remaining in almost each village there.
Natural diversity and wonderful wildlife, sandy beaches, mountainous landscape,
historical monuments and local communities all make the region of Adjara a
promise of unforgettable impressions for visitors of the Mtirala National Park
and its support zone.
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